Here's our 2008 South Pacific cruising season, put to map. I looked all over the net for a decent map of the area, and this is the best I could find. Our track through the Fiji islands, where we spent 4 months is greatly simplified. We left Opua, New Zealand in June, 2008 and arrived in Bundaberg, Australia, after a nearly 6 month long cruising season.
Barbara Ann sailed into Bundaberg, Australia on Nov. 26, 2008. In spite of it's immense size, the continent is low-lying; we didn't see anything until we were only a few miles out. Despite what we'd heard about problems with customs and quarantine, we had an easy entry at the Bundaberg Port Marina. We spent the next two weeks there, getting a new freezer box installed and taking care of several small boat projects.
Bundaberg's main tourist attraction is the Bundaberg Rum Distillery.
It's a mob scene at the marina. This group of kangaroos came into the field right outside our dock every afternoon to feed. They let us get about 75' away before hopping off.
Bundaberg is a nice enough stop, but we were very anxious to spend the 2008 holiday season on the Sunshine Coast, closer to Brisbane. We almost didn't make it. While leaving the Bundaberg marina, at midnight on Dec. 15th, we heard a loud squealing coming from the engine room and the boat wouldn't move forward normally. We had to drop anchor right outside the marina. The thought of having to be towed back, or worse - being hauled out for repairs - was almost too much to bear. After a few minutes, we started the engine up again, and this time all was well. Enormously relieved, we headed to Mooloolaba, on the South Queensland coast. The problem would resurface later - a gear box issue - and shouldn't be too difficult to fix.
Our first stop on the Sunshine Coast was the Mooloolaba Marina. This beach is only a 5 minute walk from our pier. Austin was especially glad to be here, as the surfing is good. This very popular area is full of great beaches, boardwalks, parks, restaurants and shops.
Another holiday season on board. Again, it was a little weird listening to all the Christmas music in the middle of an Aussie summer heat wave. New Year's Eve in Mooloolaba was great - 4 rock bands playing at a free show on the beach, and lots of young people in various states of sobriety. After a midnight fireworks show on the water we made our way back to the boat through a huge throng of partying Aussies.
Earthrace is a record breaking round-the-world power boat that uses only bio-diesel fuel and is 100% carbon neutral. The boat stops in ports like Mooloolaba as it makes its way around the world to promote environmentally-friendly fuels. The vessel is as high-tech as it looks; check out their website: www.earthrace.net
All was not well with the authorities however. Here's our paparazzi shot of the Queensland authorities leaving the boat after issuing the owner a citation for allowing the public tour his vessel without a license, or something to that effect. The owner is the unhappy-looking guy in the bandanna, with an expensive ticket in his hand. We later learned that cooler heads prevailed - the powers that be had the ticket expunged.
We rented a car for a couple of days and did some touring around Queensland. Bear in mind that Australia is so big you can only see small bits of it at a time. The boys and I are taking a break while on a hike in a national forest.
Austin rides one in on the beach that's a 5 minute walk from the marina.
After a couple of weeks enjoying Mooloolaba, we headed south to the East Coast Marina in Manly, just outside of Brisbane. Our main purpose for coming to this area was to install an air conditioning system in our aft cabin. To save money, and gain experience, I did the install, save for the cabinetry work. Here's the new unit on its shelf, right beside our bed. We wanted to be ready for the tropical heat of SE Asia, our next big cruising area.
This year, the Chinese New Year and Australia Day were both celebrated on the same day - Jan. 26, 2009. We went into Brisbane's Chinatown, in Fortitude Valley, to check out the festivities. This young girl is getting a calligraphy lesson from an expert.
On the South Bank of the Brisbane River, the locals were celebrating Australia Day in a big way. Here's the band Jambezi, playing a mix of African and Rock, at a free concert hosted by Queensland.
Tyler completed his correspondence high school and for a graduation gift we outfitted him with a complete backpacking/camping setup, and put him on a plane for the island of Tasmania for his first solo "walkabout". He spent 15 days hiking and hitch-hiking around Australia's most southern state.
Tyler at Cole's Bay Lookout, on the Freycinet peninsula.
Decisions, decisions.
Here's some of Ty's new "kit". His tent was comfy, and the meals were simple and quick.
While camped in Oldina, Tyler met a German couple who were on an extended 4-wheel drive trek around Australia. They took him on some off-road touring, and ended up at a rodeo, of all things. They'd never been to a rodeo, and were keen to see one. Their website is www.world-multivisions.com.
A view of Wineglass Bay, on the East Coast of Tasmania.
Ty's two week Tasmanian adventure came to an end and he rejoined us in Manly. Before returning to Mooloolaba, Barbara Ann headed up the Brisbane River and tied to pile moorings in the heart of the downtown Brisbane. We were within short walking distance of several free museums, great restaurants, and the lovely Botanical Gardens.
After a 3 day visit to Brisbane, we headed back to Mooloolaba, in order to get ready for a long-planned side trip (this time flying, not sailing) to the South Island of New Zealand. Barbara Ann will be under the watchful eye of friends in the marina while we visit NZ.
Side trip to South Island, New Zealand
The South Island
Last year, we only got to see the North Island of New Zealand. Most people agree that the South Island is the more scenic of the two. The majority of the Lord of The Rings was filmed on the South Island. Pacific Blue, a Virgin airline, offers cheap flights from Brisbane to Christchurch (largest city on the South Island) and we flew there in February, 2009 for a 5 week driving tour of the island. Our hosts when we arrived were our friends Gene and Cathy Klein, who visited us in Fiji a few months back. They offered us a car to use, and helped us get started.
Here's Gene giving the boys a last minute lesson on 3 wheeling before they head out to view their farm, located about 40 minutes drive from Christchurch. The critters in the background are horses and Boer goats on their paddocks. They also have turkeys, chickens, and often, cattle.
Our first night out was spent at a campground in the old French settlement of Akaroa, east of Christchurch. We slept two to a tent; here's Jackie answering her wake-up call the next morning.
After a tough night camping, it's good to take the edge off with a winery tour, or two, or three.. There's no shortage of vineyards on the Northeastern side of the island.
Working our way counter-clockwise around the island, we stopped in Picton, and enjoyed the hospitality of our cruising friends Howard and Shira, whom we hadn't seen since French Polynesia. They now run Atlantis Backpackers in Picton, and we just happened to find them after arriving in town. Their good friend Russell was kind enough to take me for my first para-gliding ride. Here's the two of us, right after take-off.
Picton is located on the doorstep of the famous Abel Tasman National Park. We got dropped off in the park by a water taxi and took a day's hike along the highest part of the Queen Charlotte Track. In the photo above, Picton would be at the head of the farthest bay that can be seen.
Our campground outside Abel Tasman was more Safari-style than tent camping. The only thing lacking was an en-suite bathroom.
Kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park.
One of the best things about traveling in New Zealand is the easy access to colorful and comfortable Backpacker hostels and Inns. After our day of kayaking in Abel Tasman, we spent two nights at The Innlet, in Golden Bay. Above is their comfy back porch and below are their "one-man" hot tubs, near a small brook that runs through the property.
No visit to Golden Bay would be complete without a walk on Wharariki Beach at low tide. Several seal pups were playing in tidal pools, and let us get to within an arm's length before waddling away.
Another highly recommended hostel is the Old Slaughtherhouse in Hector, on the northern end of the west coast. You can't drive to the Inn; instead, you have to park down below and hike 10 minutes up a steep path to get there. Luggage is brought up on 4 wheel ATV's. I was out of breath by the time I made the front porch, but it was worth it, if only for the long range views of the Tasman Sea. Just watch out for the huge land crabs. Tyler made this guy out of stuff he found on a beach walk there.
Another favorite of ours was the Global Village, in Greymouth, on the west coast. As with most of these backpacker hostels, we had our own room (common kitchen and bathrooms - very clean) for only about $50 US per night. We made friends with backpackers from all over the world at these hostels, and they were always a great place to hang out in the evenings.
Being silly, on the way down the West coast, heading for the Glaciers.
One of the highlights of our trip - the Franz Joseph Glacier, in Westland National Park. The 4 pictures below are from our all-day hike, in crampons, on the Glacier.
On the scenic West Coast Highway, near Haast, on the way to Wanaka.
Here's the best way to catch a flick. We enjoyed Benjamim Button in comfort, at the Paradiso in Wanaka. You can relax with a glass of wine, a micro-brew, or a full-on dinner with a movie. The below shot was taken during intermission - do we have some folks with sleep deficit here?
With our ever-present geeky guide to Lord of The Rings location sites, we stopped by Arrowtown, on the way to Queenstown. Right outside the town center, this Arrow River site was where the Ford of Bruinen scene was filmed - here, Erowen rescued Frodo from the clutches of the Nazgul riders.
Next stop was Queenstown, the adventure capital of New Zealand. Here is where you go if you want to bungy jump, canyon swing, para-glide - whatever. We tossed it around and opted to go river boarding on a Class III river. They take the risks pretty seriously, as people have drowned on this trip; we had a pretty extensive check-out swim with the guides first, to prove we were up to it. After the rapids, you float downstream to their "fun spot" where you do rock jumps, board slides and rope swings. All told, at the end of the day, I was whupped. See their website for more action shots: www.riverboarding.co.nz/riverboarding/index.htm These next 5 shots are from that outing.
Kayaking in the famous Milford Sound, Fiordland National Park.
Tyler got this shot on time exposure, sans tripod. Not bad, considering it was hand stabilized.
At Curio Bay, in the Catlins regions, on the Southern tip of the island, low tide reveals a petrified forest. About 180 million years ago a mudslide from a volcanic eruption buried and preserved these ancient conifers. Wood turned to stone. Not all of the beach inhabitants are extinct yet; we were fortunate to see this Yellow-eyed penguin up close and personal. They return to this beach for nesting and molting, but their numbers are decreasing. We're now farther south than we've ever been - more than 46 degrees south.
The Lost Gypsy gallery, in Papatowai, is a showplace of mechanical/comic genius. I can't really describe it - you just have to experience it.
Back on the East coast again, heading north from Dunedin, there's a unique geological site known as the Moeraki Boulders. http://www.newzealandnz.co.nz/destinations/moeraki.html has the explanation for this phenomenon.
Back at Gene & Cathy's place, Jackie takes a ride on Cathy's horse, Coaster. Someone's had lessons..
Back to Australia and Barbara Ann
